National Geographic News
Published August 30, 2012
The value of ambergris lies in its role in the fragrance industry. High-end perfumes from houses such as Chanel and Lanvin take advantage of the ability of ambergris to fix scent to human skin. The smell of ambergris itself varies from piece to piece, ranging from earthy to musky to sweet. If a perfume house's "nose" - the person responsible for choosing scents - likes the aroma, the ambergris can be worth thousands an ounce. Though it is illegal to use ambergris in perfumes in the
U.S. because of
the sperm whale's endangered status, foreign markets, especially French, remain
Scientists still don't know for sure the exact origins of ambergris. They do know that when sperm whales have a stomach or throat irritant, often a squid beak, they cover it in a greasy substance and cast it out. It was once thought the ambergris was ejected by mouth. As of now, the argument seems to be weighted toward the back end of the whale.
Source : http://news.nationalgeographic.com
Ambergris, (Latin: Ambra grisea, Ambre gris, ambergrease or grey amber) is a solid, waxy, flammable substance of a dull grey or blackish color produced in the digestive system of sperm whales. Freshly produced ambergris has a marine, fecal odor. However, as it ages, it acquires a sweet, earthy scent commonly likened to the fragrance of rubbing alcohol without the vaporous chemical astringency. Although Ambergris had been highly valued by perfumers as a fixative (allowing the scent to last much longer), it has largely been replaced by synthetics.
Ambergris is found in lumps of various shapes and sizes, weighing from 15 g (~½ oz) to 50 kg (110 pounds) or more. When initially expelled by or removed from the whale, the fatty precursor of ambergris is pale white in color (sometimes streaked with black), soft, with a strong fecal smell. Following months to years of photodegradation and oxidation in the ocean, this precursor gradually hardens, developing a dark grey or black color, a crusty and waxy texture, and a peculiar odor that is at once sweet, earthy, marine, and animalic. Its smell has been generally described as a vastly richer and smoother version of isopropanol without its stinging harshness. In this developed condition, ambergris has a specific gravity ranging from 0.780 to 0.926. It melts at about 62 °C to a fatty, yellow resinous liquid; and at 100 °C (212 °F) it is volatilized into a white vapor. It is soluble in ether, and in volatile and fixed oils.
Ambergris has been mostly known for its use in creating perfume and fragrance much like musk. Perfumes can still be found with ambergris around the world. It is collected from remains found at sea and on beaches, although its precursor originates from the sperm whale, which is a vulnerable species. Ancient Egyptians burned ambergris as incense, while in modern
ambergris is used for scenting cigarettes. The ancient Chinese called the
substance "dragon's spittle fragrance". During the Black
Death in Europe, people believed that
carrying a ball of ambergris could help prevent them from getting the plague.
This was because the fragrance covered the smell of the air which was believed
to be the cause of plague. This substance has also been used historically as a
flavouring for food, and some people consider it an aphrodisiac. During the
Middle Ages, Europeans used ambergris as a medication for headaches, colds,
epilepsy, and other ailments.
Many countries ban the trade of ambergris as part of a more general ban on the hunting and exploitation of sperm whales.
* In chapter 91 of Herman Melville's Moby-Dick (1851), Stubb, one of the mates of the Pequod, fools the captain of a French whaler (Rose-bud) into abandoning the corpse of a sperm whale found floating in the sea. His plan is to recover the corpse himself in hopes that it contains ambergris. His hope proves well founded, and the Pequod's crew recovers a valuable quantity of the substance. Melville devotes the following chapter to a discussion of ambergris, with special attention to the irony that "fine ladies and gentlemen should regale themselves with an essence found in the inglorious bowels of a sick whale."
* In the 2001 film
Lecter sends Clarice Starling a letter which he writes while intentionally
wearing a hand lotion containing ambergris, correctly assuming that this would
ultimately aid her in discovering his location in ,
due to it being legal only in few parts of the world. Florence, Italy
Source : http://en.wikipedia.org