Formal dressing is delicate business. Just focusing on dress
shirts, there are so many details that it’s hard to get right, with a fabric
for every occasion. There are a shirtload of fabrics and weaves which dress shirts
can be made from- here are the main ones you should know.
Cotton should be your go-to shirt material. The big
advantage of cotton is that it’s breathable, so you won’t be dripping sweat
underneath it. The fabric is soft and will sit well if it fits well. However,
cotton shirts tend to wrinkle and can shrink in the wash, but that’s where
cotton blends come in. Choose polycotton, a cotton-polyester blend, and your shirt
will never have to touch an iron and won’t come out of the washing machine a
size smaller. Polycotton shirts tend to be cheaper, particularly those with a
higher proportion of polyester, and are not as comfortable as pure cotton
shirts. Polycotton shirts are low maintenance but generally not of great
quality. Shirts that are more polyester than cotton should be avoided at all
costs, as they are notoriously uncomfortable and look too rigid.
Cotton twill
Twill is a diagonal weave with a slight sheen, often used
for dress shirts. The textured fabric is ideal for block colored shirts. Cotton
twill is appropriate for almost any situation that requires a shirt- the weave
adds understated interest to your outfit. The advantages of cotton twill are
that it is durable, breathable and is more detailed than a plain weave.
Oxford
Oxford
shirts are versatile, and can be worn in casual or formal situations. Oxford is characterised
by a basket weave, is heavier than a plain weave, and can be made from a
variety of materials including trusty cotton. Royal Oxford, which has a finer weave, in
particular is suited to formal wear.
Broadcloth and poplin
Broadcloth and poplin are tightly woven, strong, plain weave
fabrics. Poplin is typically made out of cotton. Broadcloth can be cotton, a
cotton blend or that dreaded polyester. Both are suitable for the office, but
not for occasions requiring a full suit.
Silk
A silk shirt is not for a regular day at the office, despite
being irresistibly comfortable. Shiny and luxurious, a silk shirt would suit
only the most formal of occasions. Always wear with a suit and preferably a
tie, and in a block color rather than any kind of pattern. Silk shirts are
typically in a plain weave. It’s easy to get lost amongst the variety of shirt options.
Keep it simple by starting off your shirt collection with pure cotton shirts,
or polycotton blends if you want a lower maintenance shirt, in a plain or
diagonal weave. Thread count is a good indicator of the quality of a shirt- the
higher the thread count the better. Anything with a thread count of over one
hundred is a good bet.
Above all, avoid polyester shirts!
Source : http://www.tsbmag.com
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